Taste the 518: Mama's Pho House in Malta

April 21, 2026

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Hey 518 readers, it’s a lovely Tuesday evening in the CR. Today, we’re thrilled to introduce Mama’s Pho House to you. Since moving to Albany four years ago, Phat has been desperately looking for the kind of Vietnamese food he took for granted growing up in Southern California, home to “Little Saigon” and the largest Vietnamese diaspora in the U.S.

Well, we think we might have found it in Mama’s Pho House. Not only is the food delicious, but the story behind the restaurant is equally remarkable.

🍽️ We’re also super excited for our first 518 Dinner Club event on Wednesday evening. Nearly 40 of you are signed up and we can’t wait to meet you at the secret post-dinner party. Can’t join this one? Get on the list for next month’s Dinner Club.

—Phat X. Chiem & Karley Sullivan

Nga Nguyen (Mama) with happy customers; the delicious phở đặc biệt at Mama’s Pho House

From the streets of Saigon to Malta: The story behind the Capital Region's best bowl of pho

The only thing you might appreciate more than Nga "Cindy" Nguyen’s Vietnamese cooking is her remarkable story.

Long before she ever dreamed of opening Mama’s Pho House in Malta, she was already in the business of feeding people — selling bowls of bún riêu on the streets of Saigon as a young girl in a family of six kids.

Born to a Vietnamese mother and an African American serviceman whom she never met, she was marginalized from her earliest years as bụi đời, meaning "dust of life" or "children of the dust.” It’s the derogatory term that Vietnamese use to describe “Amerasians.”

None of this stopped Nga, who goes by "Mama" to pretty much everyone who knows her, from making the best Vietnamese we’ve tasted in the Capital Region.

Mama arrived in the U.S. in 1989 with little except for enormous drive and determination. She worked as a hotel maid in D.C., raised three kids in Worcester, Massachusetts, spent years in the nail salon industry, and eventually landed in the Capital Region in 2008. For a long time, the restaurant was only a dream.

Then, at age 57 (!), with encouragement from her children, her husband, and a best friend who believed in her, she finally made it real. Mama's Pho House opened in Malta in September 2024.

The menu is focused and intentional, a tight lineup of Vietnamese classics done with the kind of care that comes from a lifetime of cooking. The phở đặc biệt is the anchor: a massive, deeply flavored bowl loaded with rare beef, flank, brisket, tripe, and beef tendon meatballs.

The bún riêu—that same crab and tomato noodle soup Nguyen once hawked on Saigon sidewalks—is now a local obsession. The delicious bún (vermicelli bowls) are loaded with fresh herbs and topped with expertly marinated and grilled beef, pork or chicken.

And if you’ve never had bò kho, the Vietnamese beef stew studded with tender braised chunks of beef, carrots, and onions, and served with a French baguette, you’re in for a real treat. Don’t sleep on the Vietnamese smoothies either—try the avocado (it tastes a lot better than it sounds!).

The worst thing you can say about Mama’s Pho House is that it’s a fair drive from downtown Albany.

You’ll immediate feel at home at Mama’s Pho House. Mama cooks like she's feeding family. It’s what she’s always known.

The deets: Mama's Pho House, 1106 Ellsworth Blvd, Malta. Open Sun–Thurs 11a–8p, Fri–Sat 11a–9p.

A word from our sponsor

Women-led adventures that make a difference

Peru, Bhutan and Cambodia. That’s where Intrepid, the world’s largest adventure travel company, has launched three new Women’s Expeditions.

These small-group trips are designed exclusively for women, creating space to connect, explore and support local women-led businesses along the way.

Trek the lesser-known Chinchero to Urquillos route in the Peruvian Andes with an all-female crew. Discover Cambodia’s street food scene on a women-run tuk tuk tour. Unwind with a traditional herbal hot stone bath at a women-owned farmhouse in Bhutan.

Every trip is led by an expert female guide and built around meaningful, immersive experiences.

🍕 Some pizza news: Pizzeria Michelina at 376 Delaware Ave in Albany is back in business—but only on Friday through Sunday, for now. Get yourself a tasty wood-fired pie… The cult pizza known as Pizza by Plu is abandoning his store front and going back to the original concept of weekly pizza drops. Read our story to learn how it all works.

🎻 Musicians of Ma'alwyck will celebrate the spirit of 1776 with a special “Tavern Night” at Common Roots Albany Outpost this Sunday. The ensemble will take you back in time with music heard in America in the 1770s. The lively celebration also features special performances, a silent auction, historic re-enactors, festive fare, and musical surprises, all inspired by the spirit of Revolutionary-era America.

😂 Nate Bargatze is back at the MVP Arena on May 15 for his Big Dumb Eyes tour. The last time Nate was in Albany, he cracked this little gem: “Albany looks pretty cool. When does it open?”

💰️ Ever wondered what folks at the City of Albany make? Albany Data Stories shared this chart of city salaries on Reddit. The mayor of Albany makes only $70K a year??

Set in the historic town of Austerlitz, this well-maintained circa 1820 home showcases the craftsmanship that makes these old houses so enduring. Filled with natural light and finished with beautiful wood floors throughout, it offers a warm, inviting interior that blends historic character with everyday comfort. An antique mantel from Pennsylvania, dating to the early 19th century, anchors the home with a striking reminder of its origins.

With three bedrooms and three baths, the layout is both comfortable and practical for full-time living or weekend escapes. Outside, thoughtfully tended gardens, a back deck, and a stone patio create an easy flow for quiet mornings, outdoor dining, and relaxed entertaining. Thoughtful updates over time have preserved the home’s original character while making it feel timeless, livable, and effortless day to day.

The deets: 3 bd, 3 ba, 1800 sf. Asking: $349,000. Days on market: 3. See the full listing here.

Note: The 518 Weekender now publishes on Thursdays. Watch your inboxes!

WEDNESDAY

🍽️ Grab a great meal deal at Clifton Park Restaurant Week, through Sunday.

🎷 The annual Niskayuna Central School District Jazz Festival lights up Nisky High.

🧻 The Kids of Albany presents The Rocky Horror Picture Show at the Palace Theatre—it’s a "Halfway to Halloween" extravaganza!

THURSDAY

🔴 How well do you know “Stranger Things”? Get to IIlium Bar for their Stranger Things Trivia Night!

🎭️ Cry-Baby: The Musical is a trashy, tuneful takedown of 1950s repression, at Cohoes Music Hall through April 26.

FRIDAY

🎤 Ice Spice headlines the UAlbany Student Association’s annual Parkfest at the MVP Arena.

🎷 The Arch Stanton Quartet puts on a free jazz performance inspired by Paul Bowles’ The Sheltering Sky, at the Altamont Library.

🍺 Night at the Newseum lets you drink afterhours at the historic Saratoga Springs History Museum inside the Canfield Casino.

⛴️ The Canna Cruise is a curated cannabis-friendly social experience set against
the scenic backdrop of the Hudson River, hosted by the folks at Metroland.

🍕 Did you know that it’s buy-one-get-one-free pizza at City Beer Hall for all of April, and Fridays are $5 all-you-can-eat focaccia nights?

SATURDAY

📚️ Get to The Book Hive’s A Bookish Market at Common Roots Albany Outpost for discount books and author signings.

🌳 Troy Botanical Garden’s Spring Fest features pony rides, petting zoo, live music, local vendors, and a spring buffett—all for $7. Sat & Sun.

🚒 The Children’s Museum in Saratoga brings in the big wheels for its beloved Big Truck Day.

🧘‍♂️ Good Karma Studio invites you to their Silent Disco Yoga Flow!

📷️ Learn the basics of cyanotype with local artist Amanda Lane at Create Community Studios.

🌸 Have you checked out the new Riilaxx Tavern in the former Ama Cocina space? Their Spring Day Party is a good reason to drop in!

🥘 This might be worth the drive to Kingston if you love Indian food: Heartland Masala Chaat Party—a mostly demo class with the authors of “Heartland Masala.”

SUNDAY

🏳️‍🌈 The first A Big Gay Market of the year is in Washington Park, Knox Street Mall.

👄 Spring Through the Decades: Drag Brunch features fierce queens serving up looks and lip-syncs inspired by the 70s, 80, 90s, 2000s.

ART ON VIEW

Our music listings are now published separately on The 518 website. Click here.

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